What is Vermouth?
Vermouth in Alicante is more than just a drink—it’s a cultural touchstone, a symbol of conviviality and tradition that has deep roots in Spanish society. But what exactly is vermouth? At its core, vermouth is a fortified wine infused with a variety of botanicals, herbs, and spices. This aromatic elixir can be traced back to ancient medicinal wines, but the vermouth we know today began to take shape in the 18th century in Italy and France.
There are two primary types of vermouth: sweet (rosso or rojo) and dry (bianco). Sweet vermouth, with its rich, caramel notes and deep red hue, originated in Italy and is a staple in classic cocktails like the Negroni and Manhattan. Dry vermouth, lighter and crisper, hails from France and is famously used in martinis. Additionally, there are white (blanco) vermouths, which offer a lighter, often citrusy profile.
A Brief History of Vermouth
The history of vermouth is a fascinating journey that begins in the ancient civilisations of Greece and Rome, where spiced wines were consumed for their purported health benefits. The modern vermouth we enjoy today was first commercialised in the late 18th century in Turin, Italy, by Antonio Benedetto Carpano, who is often credited with creating the first sweet vermouth. This innovation quickly spread to France, where Joseph Noilly crafted the first dry vermouth.
Vermouth’s journey to Spain saw it embraced with characteristic Iberian enthusiasm. By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, vermouth had become a beloved aperitif, particularly in Catalonia and the Basque Country. Spanish vermouth tends to be sweeter and more robust, often enjoyed as a stand-alone drink rather than as a cocktail ingredient.
Vermouth in Spanish Culture
In Spain, vermouth isn’t just a drink—it’s a ritual. Known as “vermut,” this aromatic aperitif is the star of “la hora del vermut,” a cherished tradition where friends and family gather around midday to sip vermouth and nibble on tapas. This ritual is not just about quenching thirst but also about socialising and savouring the moment. It’s a prelude to the main meal of the day, a leisurely lunch that can stretch into the late afternoon.
Spanish vermouth bars, or “vermuterías,” have experienced a resurgence in recent years. These establishments are a throwback to a simpler time, where life was unhurried and socialising was an art form. In cities like Alicante, vermouth bars are not just places to drink but to experience a slice of Spanish history and culture.
Types of Vermouth and How It’s Served in Alicante
In Alicante, vermouth is often served “de grifo” (on tap), a tradition that harks back to the days when it was stored in large wooden barrels. Here’s how you can typically find it:
- Vermút Rojo (Red Vermouth): This classic sweet vermouth is usually served over ice with a slice of orange and an olive. The sweetness of the vermouth paired with the bitterness of the olive creates a delightful balance.
- Vermút Blanco (White Vermouth): Less common but equally delightful, white vermouth is typically served with a slice of lemon and a splash of soda water. It’s lighter and crisper, perfect for a warm Alicante afternoon.
- Vermút Casero (Home-made Vermouth): Many bars in Alicante take pride in their house-made vermouth. Each batch can have a slightly different flavour profile, depending on the botanicals and herbs used. It’s usually served in the same fashion as red or white vermouth but with a bit more pride and flair.
When to Enjoy Vermouth in Alicante
In Spain, vermouth isn’t just a drink; it’s a time of day. La hora del vermut usually happens around midday, between 12 PM and 2 PM. It’s a time to pause, relax, and prepare your stomach for the feast to come. This tradition is particularly popular on weekends, serving as the perfect excuse to meet up with friends and family before a long, leisurely lunch.
In Alicante, vermouth can also be enjoyed in the late afternoon, serving as a delightful bridge between siesta and dinner. This is when you’ll find locals indulging in “tardeo,” the art of spending the evening hopping from bar to bar, enjoying drinks and tapas.
Top Places to Enjoy Vermouth in Alicante
1. Bar Zagalico
Located on Calle Aleman, Bar Zagalico is an elegant Murcian bar run by Ismael and Salva. Known for its exquisite vermouth offerings, their white vermouth is uniquely smoked with cinnamon and topped with citrus tonic and lemon zest. They also boast a home-made red vermouth, which they claim is the best in town. Closed on Mondays and Sundays.
2. La Guapa Vermutería
La Guapa Vermutería has grown from a small shop on Calle San Ildefonso to occupy two stalls on the ground floor of the Central Market. Known for its beautiful and inviting ambience, La Guapa (which means “the beautiful”) offers a good selection of transalpine vermouths of unquestionable quality due to its Italian influence. The variety extends to many Spanish vermouths, including those from Alicante, which are herbaceous, fragrant, and slightly sweet. To accompany the drinks, you can start with Basque gildas, either with boquerón or anchovy, followed by a cheese board. Don’t miss their ‘porchetta’, a cold pork sausage of Italian origin, roasted in the oven and flavoured with herbs—a delicious start to any gastronomic day.
3. El Sorbo Bodega & Vermutería
The small yet charming El Sorbo, located on Carrer Josep Maria Py, is a blend of tradition and modernity. The original stools from over 40 years ago, the original tiles, and the doors from 1950 create an authentic atmosphere. Run by Jesus and Sol, El Sorbo offers a variety of sausages from León and Pinoso, cheeses from Asturias, high-quality salted fish akin to those from the famous Cervecería Mavi, and cans of mussels from the Galician estuaries. They also boast the coldest wine cellars in Alicante, ensuring a perfect drink every time. Due to its size, it is a good idea to book in advance. Please note, El Sorbo is closed on Sundays and Mondays.
4. Pipirrana Vermutería
Located on Avenida Rambla Méndez Núñez and run by the El Molí Pan y Café group, Pipirrana Vermutería is open every day. The original bar serves vermouth and tapas, while their newly opened location on Calle Mayor, just around the corner from the original, focusses on Alicante rice dishes. Pipirrana offers more than 20 different vermouth references, both red and white, and pairs them with gourmet tapas, creating a sophisticated atmosphere for a vermouth tasting.
5. Gisbert
Located in the Mercado barrio on the lovely, quirky street Calle Poeta Quintana, famous for its independent shops, bars, and restaurants, Gisbert has been a fixture since 2017. Run by Jordi, Gisbert focusses on local products and is a delightful mezcla between a deli/shop and a small bar. This establishment emphasizes the use of high-quality local ingredients and offers vermouth on tap alongside traditional Alicante snacks.
Conclusion
Vermouth in Alicante is not just a drink; it’s a cultural experience. From the ritual of la hora del vermut to the array of delicious tapas that accompany it, vermouth is an integral part of Spanish life. So, the next time you find yourself in Alicante, make sure to take a moment to savour this magical elixir and immerse yourself in its rich cultural tapestry. Whether you’re enjoying a classic red vermouth with an olive and orange slice or a home-made variety that boasts a unique blend of botanicals, you’re sure to be enchanted by the tradition of vermouth in Alicante.
This comprehensive guide provides a glimpse into the vibrant world of vermouth in Alicante, highlighting the best places to enjoy this beloved aperitif. Whether you’re a seasoned vermouth aficionado or a curious newcomer, Alicante offers a wealth of options to explore and enjoy. Cheers to discovering the tradition of vermouth in Alicante!